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Hydroponic
Techniques Media
Hydroponic
Fertilization Dissolved
Oxygen PH
TDS, PPM,
EC
The
word “hydroponic” is derived from the
Greek terms "hydro" = “water”
and "ponos" = "labor", or working
water. Hydroponic gardening utilizes nutrients present
in water solutions to attain growth. Herein lies the
essence of hydroponic gardening: to provide the plant
with the ideal water and nutrient ratios and optimum
environmental conditions for growth to achieve maximum
yields.
Think of a plant as its own architect and construction
crew. The responsibility of the grower is simply to
drop the building materials off at the worksite at
the right time and in the right amounts. To take the
analogy a step further, lets compare soil to hydroponics.
In a soil-based scenario, the construction crew continually
begins construction from existing job sites. There
are leftover materials everywhere, making the possibility
for contamination far greater than if they were permitted
to start from scratch. Because of the nature of the
leftover materials and the state in which the new
materials exist on the site, the architect is forced
to deal with unwanted materials, in unwanted quantities
and the grower has no reliable or immediate way to
determine what is there and what isn’t. In other
words, the construction process is not streamlined.
In a hydroponic scenario, the architect and construction
crew begin design from a clean slate and the grower
has a better and more immediate grasp on what is available
and what is not available. This allows construction
to focus on the task at hand, instead of being forced
to sift through unwanted or unnecessary materials
making the entire operation more efficient. The energy
of the construction crew is therefore focused, resulting
in a reorientation of energy from preventative and
wasteful practice to quantifiable construction or
growth. In short, hydroponics eliminates the barriers
and stresses associated with plant growth and allows
a much smoother and straightforward method of growing
resulting in overall faster and higher yields.
Maintenance
Maintaining a hydroponic system is different from
traditional soil-based growing. However, once the
grower gets a crop under their belt and realizes the
potential of hydroponic gardening the light bulb comes
on. People ask us all the time, “why haven’t
I been doing this all along?” The grower will
also find that once the basics are mastered, a hydroponic
garden is actually less maintenance than a soil garden-
no weeds, no hand watering, fewer pests and diseases,
higher yields. You can essentially take the whole
“green thumb” argument and throw it out
the window. A hydroponic garden waters itself!
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Hydroponic
Techniques
Wick
systems are passive systems, meaning it has no
moving parts and the nutrient solution remains in
one place. Plants are fed through capillary action
from a wick drawing nutrient solution into the growing
medium from the reservoir. The biggest draw back of
this system is that plants that are large or use large
amounts of water and nutrient may use up the nutrient
solution faster than the wick(s) can supply it. In
this case additional wicks may be used as a supplement,
or another technique can be utilized.

Of all soilless methods, water culture, by
definition, is true hydroponics. It is also the simplest
active hydroponics system to set up on a small scale.
In this system the plant roots are totally immersed
in a nutrient solution. In a water culture system
the roots grow directly into the reservoir as opposed
to having a remote reservoir. The actual design of
the system is limited only by the imagination of the
builder. The system must provide means to (1) support
the plant above the solution, (2) aerate the solution,
and (3) prevent light from reaching the solution (to
prevent the growth of algae).

Drip systems are probably the most widely used
type of hydroponic system in the world. They are similar
to drip irrigation systems popular with commercial
farmers for their ability to conserve water through
direct feeding. Operation is simple; a timer controls
a submersed pump, which turns the pump on and off.
Nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each
plant by a small drip line. In a recirculating drip
system the excess nutrient solution that runs off
is collected back in the reservoir for re-distribution.

The Ebb and Flow (or flood and drain) system
works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient
solution and then letting the solution drain back
into the reservoir. This action is normally done with
a submerged pump that is connected to a timer. The
timer is set to come on several times a day, depending
on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity
and the type of growing medium used. The drain cycle
improves the oxygen contact with the plants roots.
Using the right medium will ensure that moisture will
be available for the roots so that they do not dry
out between cycles. One of the main attractions of
an Ebb and Flow system is the ability to containerize
your plants and physically move them around. This
aids in continuous production scenarios and enhances
the control of a grower utilizing a veg (blue) and
bloom (red) room scenario. The main disadvantage of
this type of system is that unless your medium ensures
moisture retention there is a vulnerability to power
outages, since the only way for your plants to access
food is through the action of the pump.
The Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) is a water-cultural
technique in which plants are grown with their root
systems contained in a plastic trough through which
nutrient solution is continuously circulated. Work
on NFT cropping was pioneered by Allen Cooper at the
Glasshouse Crops research Institute in Littlehampton,
England, in 1965. The term nutrient film technique
was coined to stress that the depth of liquid flowing
past the roots of the plants should be very shallow
in order to ensure that sufficient oxygen would be
supplied to the plant roots.
Feel free to
experiment by building your own hydroponic system.
As long as you have oxygenated nutrified water at
the proper pH it doesn’t matter how you feed
them. The possibilities are endless! Be sure to enclose
your reservoir so as to prevent evaporation and control
feeding times via timers in the case of a top-drip
or ebb and flow setup. Email PG or do a simple web
search to find simple plans for construction.
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Media
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The chemical,
physical, and structural properties of a substrate,
or media, can have major effects on plant growth,
root health, yields, and produce quality. It
is important to select the proper media for
the type of system and crop being grown. A seasoned
grower develops knowledge of crop specific logistics
through experience. It is a good idea for a
beginner grower to experiment with several media
types in their specific growing situation to
determine which media suits the plants being
grown, the system being used, and the specific
ambient environment.
Substrate
Properties
This section is aimed at educating the grower
about the specific characteristics of
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growing media.
Plant roots require water, minerals, and oxygen to
survive and obtain maximum growth and yields. In any
particular substrate, these requirements are determined
by the physical and chemical properties of the media,
such as the water-holding capacity, cation exchange
capacity (CEC), and pore size distribution, which
determines the aeration of the media. Plant stability
and oxygen availability are two physical variables
that come into play when choosing a medium for growth.
Since all forms
of media provide good general stability we will discuss
the specific physical structure of media first. The
physical structure of a substrate is made up of two
major components: the solid particles and the pores
between the particles, or the lattice. Of these two,
the pore space between the solid particles is most
important. Substrate porosity can be divided into
three categories: large, small, and very small.
Large pores
can be easily recognized in a substrate by saturating
it and allowing it to drain. Pores that readily lose
water by gravitational drainage are termed large pores
and have a diameter larger than about 60 microns.
These act as passages for the drainage of surplus
water or nutrient, root growth, and pores for exchange
of oxygen and carbon dioxide.
Small pores (0.3-60
microns) act as a reservoir for moisture that can
be utilized by the plant between nutrient applications.
These pores retain water and nutrients for plant growth.
Very small pores
(less than 0.2 microns) retain water when plants growing
in the substrate have reached the permanent wilting
point. They retain water at suction levels higher
than can be exerted by the plants is unavailable for
plant growth. However, they do ensure capillary rise
of water by conduction and therefore play a role in
the spread of water through the substrate.
A good hydroponic
substrate contains the right balance between large
and small pores to provide sufficient moisture between
nutrient applications, a high degree of aeration and
capillary action to evenly spread moisture throughout
the root zone, and sufficient large pore space to
allow root outgrowth into the substrate. General recommendations
for suitable hydroponic substrates are at least 35-50
percent water-holding capacity by volume and 25-40
percent air space after drainage.
A substrate
can affect the composition of the nutrient solution
and assimilation of elements by plants depending upon
the size of the granules and their structural, physical,
and chemical properties. Soilless media are selected
based on having low levels of natural nutrients to
prevent any alteration or imbalance of the nutrient
solution. The ability of certain media to retain nutrients
against leaching losses is related to its cation exchange
capacity, or CEC. The CEC is the ability of the media
to attract and hold various cations such as potassium,
calcium, magnesium, and iron, for use by the plant’s
roots. These positively charged ions are attracted
to the negatively charged media particles and therefore
aren’t leached as quickly from the media. A
media with a high CEC will require less frequent applications
of nutrients than a media with a low CEC. Zeolite
is an example of a media with high CEC.
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Coconut
Fiber
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Coconut
fiber- also called coir- is a product made from
coconut meso-carp pith, or grounded up coconut
leaves. It is usually purchased for horticultural
or hydroponic use in compressed blocks of dry
fiber that when soaked in water expand to useable
form. Some desirable qualities of coir are that
it is considered “organic”, and is
easy to dispose of as a soil conditioner, mulch,
or compost after use. Coir fiber is a classic
example of a sustainable concept. It is a byproduct
of the coir industry that makes floor mats, hanging
baskets and other products, so it is a renewable
resource. Until it’s potential as a growing
medium was realized, the residue (coir pith) from
the process that extracts the useful fibers was
left to waste. Waste = Food. |
Perhaps the most
important aspects of coir fiber as a growing medium
are lack of initial nutrients and its ability to act
as a pH buffer. Coir’s negligible initial nutrient
composition and slightly acidic pH (pH 5.8-6.5) is
ideal for plant growth and hydroponic use because
it will not affect the carefully controlled nutrient
and pH levels of the nutrient solution.
Coir fiber has the ability to absorb and retain large
quantities of water and nutrient for plant use (typically
between 80-88 percent) between irrigations. Air-filled
porosity values of 23-29 percent have been measured,
which is within the recommended range for a container
mix but a little on the low side when compared to
other free-draining media, such as expanded clay or
perlite. Coir also resists decomposition, making it
more desirable than other substrates, such as peat
or sawdust, which have a tendency to break down and
lose their free-draining structures resulting in root
suffocation and rot.
Expanded
Clay
Expanded clay- also called hydroton, or “growrocks”-
has a physical structure that is porous, allowing
good entry of both water and air. The pebbles
or balls can range in size grades from 1-18 millimeters.
All types of expanded clay are sterile, inert,
and well suited to many hydroponic systems due
to its free-draining nature and attractive appearance.
However, expanded clay does not hold a great deal
of moisture between nutrient applications and
salt accumulation and drying out can be common
problems in improperly managed systems. |
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Expanded clay is
particularly prone to salt buildup and crusting on crops
in drain-to-waste and flood-and-drain systems. This
can often be seen on the surface of the clay particles
and around the plant stem. Since salt buildup can result
in plant decline and slow growth, flushing expanded
clay on a regular basis with either half-strength nutrient
solution or one of the many flushing solutions available
is good practice.
Expanded clay
has the advantage of being reusable for many years,
provided it is cleaned and sterilized between crops
to kill any pathogens that may be present inside the
structure of the clay particles. Heat, steam, boiling
water, hydrogen peroxide, or chlorine can all be used
to safely sterilize expanded clay between crops.
Vermiculite
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Vermiculite
is a porous, spongelike, sterile media. It is
a natural mineral, which expands with the application
of heat. It is formed by hydration of certain
basaltic minerals. It’s lightweight and
has a high water absorption capacity- holding
up to five times its weight in water. It also
has a relatively high cation exchange capacity,
holding nutrients in reserve and later releasing
them. Care needs to be taken in some systems when
using vermiculite as a stand-alone since it is
prone to over saturation when nutrients are applied
frequently, often resulting in root rot. |
Perlite
| Perlite
is a siliceous, sterile, spongelike, amorphous
glass mineral of volcanic origin. When it reaches
temperatures of 850-900C, perlite softens (since
it is a glass) and water trapped in the structure
escapes and this causes the expansion of the material
at 7-15 times its original volume. The expanded
material is a brilliant white, due to the reflectivity
of the trapped bubbles. It is ideal for soilless
culture as a stand-alone and as an additive to
a soil or media that tends to get waterlogged.
Perlite is a free-draining media that does not
have the high water-retentive properties of many
other substrates. It is essentially neutral with
a pH of 6-7 but without any buffering capacity
and, unlike vermiculite, doesn’t have any
cation exchange capacity. While perlite does not
decay, the particle size does become smaller through
fracturing as it’s handled. Perlite is often
mixed at a ratio of 1:1 with vermiculite, which
improves the moisture-holding and cation exchange
capacity of the media while still remaining free
draining. |
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Rockwool
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Rockwool
is probably the most widely used substrate in
soilless growing worldwide. It is popular with
commercial and hobbyist growers since it is
sterile, lightweight (when dry), convenient,
and has excellent physical and chemical properties.
It has a high water-holding capacity (80 percent),
and good aeration (17 percent air holding capacity),
but does not have cation exchange or buffering
capacities.
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One significant
chemical attribute of rockwool is its pH. Because its
pH is alkaline (above 7), it must be soaked in water
or diluted nutrient solution before use. There are also
“rockwool soaks” or conditioning solutions
available as a presoak before planting.
Rockwool is nontoxic
but can be an irritant to the skin or via inhalation
when dry, so care should be taken when handling. There
is also an increasing concern over the problem of
disposal once its useful growing life is over. Finding
uses for spent rockwool has been the focus of some
research, but most ends up in a landfill. Because
it does not break down and decompose in the soil,
significant buildup can be a liability.
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Hydroponic
Fertilization
Nutrients are one of the basics of any hydroponic
system. In order for a fertilizer to be incorporated
into a hydroponic system it must be soluble in water.
If not, the plant cannot access it. The beauty of
hydroponics is that the grower has complete control
over the implementation of fertilizer, regarding type
and concentration. They also have the ability to immediately
monitor and maintain a relative consistency, provided
a nutrient meter is available. Because of this, it
is important for the grower to know what you are supplying
plants and what can go wrong. With any nutrient solution
there are three factors to keep in mind. First, the
composition of your nutrient – does it contain
all of the elements required for plant growth in the
correct ratios? For the most part, this is taken care
of with pre-formulated commercial nutrient lines.
Check your labels! Secondly, with your balanced and
complete nutrient solution, what strength (EC or ppm)
should it be running at for your particular crop,
stage of growth, and type of hydroponic system and
how do we measure it? And finally, what are the differences
regarding “synthetic” and “organic-based”
hydroponic fertilizers?
The Nutrient
Solution – Composition
As mentioned above, there are many ‘pre-mixed’
nutrient solutions available that simply need to be
diluted or dissolved in water before use. Often, these
pre-made nutrients come in 1, 2, 3, or even more “parts”
so the grower can change the ratio of the mineral
elements to allow for either vegetative or fruiting
and flowering growth, or for different crops. There
are many excellent brands of these pre-mixed nutrients
on the market, however, many growers have come across
major problems when they try to use some of the ‘indoor
plant food’ or other nutrients that have been
designed for plants growing in soil or a pre fertilized
potting mix. Often these types of products are not
suitable for hydroponics because they are not designed
to be a “complete plant food” or they
are not water-soluble. For example, Nitrogen in the
form of urea is not immediately available to a plant
in hydroponics because urea is not soluble in water.
For this reason Nitrogen must be delivered in its
Nitrate form in order to be utilized in hydroponics.
It is always preferable to buy a nutrient mix that
is sold especially for hydroponic use, and is a “complete”
plant food. To be “complete” a hydroponic
nutrient needs to have the essential elements for
plant growth, these are:
Nitrogen
(N), Potassium (K), Phosphorous (P), Calcium (Ca),
Magnesium (Mg), Sulphur (S), Iron (Fe), Manganese
(Mn), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Molydenum (Mo), Boron
(B), Chlorine (Cl)
{Hydrogen(H),Oxygen(O),and
Carbon(C)------> come from air(CO2) and water(H2O)}
Solution Strength
– Use and Measurement
Provided the nutrient you are using is complete and
balanced, the concentration or strength of the solution
has a major effect on plant growth and development.
This is why it is essential to measure your solution
concentration. Running the correct ppm or EC for your
particular crop and system is important. The soil
is an “everybody’s got to grow”
environment. You can grow a head of lettuce next to
a tomato plant and the respective plants take what
they need from the general soil. You can imagine in
this scenario, that the tomato must develop a much
more extensive root system relative to the lettuce,
because the tomato requires a higher level of fertilization
to reach maturity and produce fruit. In a hydroponic
scenario a grower would not use the same concentration
of nutrient solution (ideally) to grow a head of lettuce
and a tomato plant. You would top out the nutrient
solution for the lettuce around 600 ppm and the tomato
upwards of 1500-2000 ppm. If the lettuce were in the
presence of the tomato concentration it would shrivel
up and burn due to water
stress. With the ability to control the level
of fertilization in a hydroponic system the level
of fertilization
| Water
stress : Phenomenon whereby water leaves
the plant by way of osmosis due to too high of
a fertilizer or ion concentration outside the
root. Normally inside the root is more concentrated
resulting in the plants ability to uptake water
by way of osmosis. |
can be manipulated
to maintain the ideal concentration for respective
plants. Further, the tomato plant growing in a 2000
ppm nutrient solution no longer has to develop the
extensive root system it did in the general soil environment,
effectively reorienting the energy of the plant into
the upwards and more beneficial growth. Hence, higher
yields.

It is sufficient
to use nutrients based on manufacturers labeling.
However, these guidelines are very general in nature.
As we discussed above, the threshold for respective
plants can vary greatly from plant to plant, even
within genetic strains of the same plant. A nutrient
meter, which relays the relative ppm, or EC is ideal
for determining nutrient concentration. By pushing
the plant during growth and noting the nutrient level
at their respective threshold the grower gains valuable
knowledge towards idealizing their growing experience.
Synthetic
and Organic Based Nutrients
There are two kinds of formulations for hydroponic
nutrients – synthetic (or refined mineral, or
salt-based) and organic based. A synthetic nutrient
is in the form of soluble salts formulated by humans
for plant consumption. Similar to the way table salt
(NaCl) disassociates in water to form Na+ (cation)
and Cl- (anion), the pre-formulated fertilizer salts
disassociate into the correct spectrum concentrations
of necessary ion components needed for plant growth.
100% Organic
fertilizer components are dependent upon organisms
in the soil to convert the "organic" materials
into an inorganic useable form for plants. Because
of the non-soluble of many natural sources of nutrition,
organic based hydroponic nutrients have 20-30% fertilizer
salts with the rest being soluble “organic”
components, such as guanos, plant extracts, worm castings,
potash, kelps, etc. Because all of the components
are not similar in structure and properties they disassociate
at different rates in the “universal solvent”
creating a slight pH fluctuation. This is the major
difference between synthetic and organic based nutrients,
but is easily overcome with patience and practice.
Having said this,
there is absolutely no difference in the final ion
product with respect to synthetic nutrients and organic
based nutrients. An ion is an ion. It is simply a
different way of delivering the food to the plant.
As has been stated, plants “eat” ions
in an inorganic form in the end anyway. In other words,
plants do not eat guano ions, or kelp ions; they eat
the inorganic constituents of these materials after
they have been broken down or dissolved in water.
A 100% hydroponic nutrient has not been formulated
because in nature microorganisms and specific processes
break down organic compounds to make them available
to plants (i.e. “slow release” fertilizers).
Since many organic materials are not soluble in water,
they cannot be utilized in a hydroponic system, yet.
There is great potential in the ability of scientists
to locate unique plant extracts and formulations conducive
to this idea. There is currently much energy being
devoted to the technology.
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Dissolved
Oxygen (DO)
| A hydroponic
nutrient solution is not just a mix of fertilizer
salts and water. There are a number of organisms
and compounds commonly found in our hydro systems
that we need to be aware of. One of the most important
of these is dissolved oxygen (DO), which is vital
for the health and strength of the root system
as well as being necessary for nutrient uptake.
Plants breath just like all organisms via respiration.
We are used to thinking that plants produce oxygen
from CO2, which is true, but it just happens the
overall amount of oxygen used is dwarfed by the
amount produced by photosynthesis. Oxygen is an
essential plant nutrient – plant root systems
require oxygen for aerobic respiration, an essential
plant process that releases energy for root growth
and nutrient uptake. In many water-based hydroponic
systems,the oxygen supplied for |
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plant root uptake
is provided mostly as dissolved oxygen (DO) in the nutrient
solution as well as a zone of aeration provided by a
gap from the surface to the reservoir water level.
Oxygen requirements
for plants in flower tend to be more demanding in
comparison to vegetative states. This is due to the
size of the root system, temperature, and nutrient
uptake rates, not the specific stage of growth.
Injury from low
(or no) oxygen in the root zone can take several forms
and these will differ in severity between plant types.
Often the first sign of inadequate oxygen supply to
the roots is wilting of the plant under warm conditions
and high light levels. Insufficient oxygen reduces
the permeability of the roots to water and there will
be an accumulation of toxins, so that both water and
minerals are not absorbed in sufficient amounts to
support plant growth.
While it is possible
to measure the levels of dissolved oxygen in a hydroponic
nutrient solution, it is not carried out as often
as EC/ppm or pH monitoring due to the cost of accurate
DO meters. However, if an effective method of aeration
is continually being used, and solution temperatures
are not reaching excessively high levels, then good
levels of oxygenation can be achieved without trouble.
Most growers
are familiar with the need to have some sort of aeration
in their nutrient solution due to waters high surface
tension – whether they are in a recirculating
water-based or media-based system. However, the effect
of temperature of the solution on the DO levels and
on root respiration rates also needs to be taken into
account. As the temperature of your nutrient solution
increases, the ability of that solution to hold DO
decreases. For example, the oxygen content of a fully
aerated solution at 50 F (10 C) is about 13 ppm, but
as the solution warms up to 68 F (20 C) the ability
of the liquid to ‘hold’ oxygen drops to
9-10 ppm. By the time the solution has reached 86
F (30 C) it is only 7 ppm. While this may not seem
like a huge drop in the amount of DO, we have to remember
that as the temperature of the root system warms,
the rate of respiration of the root tissue also increases
and more oxygen is required by the plant. For example,
the respiration rate of the roots will double for
each 10 C rise in temperature up to 86 F (30 C). So
the situation can develop where the solution temperature
increases from 68-86 F (20-30 C) during the day, with
a mature crop, then the requirement for oxygen will
double while the oxygen carrying capacity of the solution
will drop by 25%. This means that the DO in solution
will be much more rapidly depleted and then plants
can suffer from oxygen starvation (root rot) for a
period of time.
Perhaps one of
the commonest problems in hydropnic systems is the
Pythium pathogen. What many growers do not realize
is that Pythium, being an “opportunist”
fungi, often takes advantage of plants which have
been stressed by a combination of high temperatures
and oxygen starvation in the root zone. Pythium is
usually described as a “secondary infection”
meaning that the Pythium spores that are actually
common in just about all hydroponic systems, don't
actually attack the plant until it has been damaged
in some way. Pythium is everywhere, so the best defense
is a healthy plant. There are many products available
that can help in your battle with root disease. Refer
to the “roots” discussion in the Plant
Nutrition section of this site for more info.
The variables
to remember in regard to nutrient solutions are that
aeration is vital to maintain the DO levels, temperatures
should be kept within an optimum range, and a healthy
plant is the best measure of protection against a
disease outbreak.
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pH
The pH scale is a way to measure the Acid or Basic
(alkaline) quantities in water. The official definition
of pH is: a unit of measure that describes the degree
of acidity or alkalinity of a liquid solution. It
is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Acids are in a
range from 0 to 7, with lower numbers being a stronger
acid. Alkaline is in the range from 7 to 14, with
the higher numbers being a stronger base. The term
pH is derived from “p”, the mathematical
symbol of the negative logarithm, and “H”,
the elemental symbol for Hydrogen. The technical definition
of pH is the negative logarithm of the Hydrogen ion
activity {pH = -log[H+]}. pH expresses the degree
of activity of an acid or base in terms of hydrogen
ion activity. When substances with more hydrogen ions
are added the pH gets more acidic, thus having more
of a (+) positive charge. Similarly, when substances
with more hydroxide ions are added the pH gets more
alkaline, thus having more of a (-) negative charge.
These charges are present everywhere in your solution
and form the framework of nutrient uptake. The plant
takes care of the hard part; all you have to do is
supply it with the right materials. The charges surround
the roots and exchange positive and negative charges
allowing for absorption of nutrients into the roots
via active transport. For this reason the pH must
be monitored during the entire growth cycle of the
plants to maintain the maximum healthy uptake of nutrients.
The pH of the nutrient solution will affect how well
each element can pass through the root cell wall and
nourish the plant. However, once you have properly
calibrated your fertilizer concentrations and the
pH of that solution you can generally assume it will
stay steady barring any unforeseen root disease. Having
said that, it is always a good idea to monitor your
system too much than too little.
A pH of 7 is
considered to be neutral. Any substance between 3.0
and 10.0 can be handled fairly safe, from the standpoint
that they will not harm exposed skin. Any chemical
with a pH lower than 3.0 or higher than 10.0 should
be handled with care.
When growing
soilless it is very important to control the pH of
the water. The recommended pH range for plants is
5.8 to 6.5, with 6.0 to 6.5 being ideal for vegetative
growth. A slightly lower range, 5.8 to 6.2, is ideal
for fruiting and flowering. However, it is much more
important to be in the ballpark rather than on the
decimal point in regards to pH. This idea will become
second nature to the experienced grower. PH kits and
drops and pH pens are available for maintenance. Adding
pH UP or pH DOWN solutions to raise or lower your
solution, respectively, will alter the pH of the solution.

The nutrient
used in soilless gardening, which is added to the
water to promote growth, can also affect the pH. When
adjusting the pH of your solution, it is a good idea
to add the nutrient first then measure the pH.
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TDS, PPM,
or EC?
The two dominant forms of determining fertilizer concentration
in a hydroponic system are Electrical Conductivity
(EC) and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). TDS is referred
to as Parts Per Million (PPM), which many may be familiar
with. In fact, TDS and PPM are actually conversions
of EC.
Nutrients take
the form of ions in solution. The same way NaCl table
salt disassociates into Na+ and Cl- ions when dissolved
in water, your nutrient solution breaks up into ions
that represent the entire spectrum of minerals needed
for plant growth. EC is determined by sending an electric
pulse through your nutrient solution with a nutrient
meter. The rate at which the pulse reaches its destination
is relayed into the resulting EC. So a nutrient solution
containing more nutrient (or ions) results in a higher
EC because there are more ions there to carry the
charge. An EC of 1is equal to different PPM readings
depending on which conversion factor is used. Herein
lies the problem with TDS and PPM. The so-called 442
conversion results in 700 PPM for every 1 EC. Conversely,
the NaCl conversion is approximately 500 PPM per 1
EC. This situation is not dissimilar to the differences
and confusion caused by the American system of measurement
and the Metric system. The discontinuity between these
forms of measurement has caused wasted energy and
student frustration since their inventions. Similarly,
by not having a universal standard for nutrient concentrations
the possibility of universal recognition must wait
on human conversion. The most reliable way to ensure
your number means what it means is to utilize EC.
Having said all
of this, in the end it is the plant that will tell
you what it wants. The bottom line is, be consistent
with your calibration. By ensuring that, at least,
you calibrate to the same place every time you can
develop knowledge of what number your plants desire.
Treat your number as a benchmark for pushing your
plants. Nutrient meters are not vital to a hydroponic
growing operation, but represent an additional level
of knowledge and control and can be extremely beneficial
in acquiring specific understanding of plant responses
to mineral and amendment additions.
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